音に導かれる旅エジプト土に埋もれた大いなる遺産８

Journeys Guided by Sound

#Egypt #Journeys Guided by Sound #Pyramid #エジプト #ピラミッド #音に導かれる旅 #音楽 #Music 2023.08.16

エジプト
土に埋もれた大いなる遺産 8

Egypt
A Great Heritage Buried in the Earth 8

2013年6月9日～28日
June 9-28, 2013

ASWAN

二週間近く過ごしたカイロは言わずもがなな大都会で、写真を見てもらえば分かる通り、
砂埃と画面では伝わらないであろう排気ガスの臭いがもの凄く、
終始日本の黄砂の様な状態。車はいくら洗車してもキリがないのではないか、と思うくらいだ。
自分は都会生まれ、育ちなのでさしてそこにストレスは感じないが、やはり都会には足りないものがある。

Cairo, where I spent nearly two weeks, is a big city, and as you can see from the pictures, the dust and the smell of exhaust gas, which you cannot see on the screen, were so strong that it was like yellow sand in Japan from start to finish.
I thought that no matter how much they washed their cars, there was no end to the amount of time they could spend there.
I was born and raised in the city, so I don’t feel stressed, but there is something that the city lacks.

福岡に住んだ経験からも田舎ならではの良さがあるわけで、当然ここエジプトでもそうだろう。
先日の１泊砂漠ツアーでは現地ならではの文化、特に音は聞けなかったわけだが、
今回自分の中のミッションとして、先述した『ヌビア』という民族と、その音に興味があり、出来たら録音したかったので今回のエジプトの旅に発つ前にあるエジプト料理屋さんに相談をしに行った。

Having lived in Fukuoka, I can tell that the countryside has its own unique qualities, and naturally, the same is true here in Egypt.
I was not able to listen to the local culture, especially the sounds, during my overnight desert tour the other day, but I was interested in the aforementioned Nubian people and their sounds, and wanted to record them if possible, so I was not able to hear the local culture, especially the sounds, on my recent overnight desert tour, but I was interested in the aforementioned “Nubian” people and their sounds, and wanted to record them if possible, as part of my mission this time so before leaving for my trip to Egypt, I went to an Egyptian restaurant to ask for advice.

エジプト料理　うちむら (Egyptian restaurant UCHIMURA)

この店を知ったのは代々木上原にある日本で一番大きなモスク『東京ジャーミー』にその当時駐在していたトルコ大使館文化事業部のテラットさんからの紹介だった。
彼とは2012年に発刊した『YAKAZA ENSEMBLE meets SYUNOVEN』というCD付き画集の縁で知り合った。
厳密にはケニアと日本のハーフで吉祥寺在住の友人からの勧めで2001年９月１１日以来に訪れ、
発売直前だったその画集の音がトルコの仲間たちの音だったこともあり、
その流れで彼からイスラムの基本を教えてもらい、その画集の絵画の作者SYUNOVENの個展をなんとそのモスクでやらせてもらったり、
その後そのトルコのバンドYAKAZA ENSEMBLEの日本ツアーの資金援助をしてもらったり、だいぶお世話になった。

I was introduced to this restaurant by Mr. Terat of the Cultural Affairs Department of the Turkish Embassy, who was stationed at “Tokyo Jammy,” the largest mosque in Japan, located in Yoyogi Uehara at the time.
I met him through an art book with CD titled “YAKAZA ENSEMBLE meets SYUNOVEN” published in 2012.
To be exact, I visited there since September 11, 2001 at the recommendation of a half-Kenyan, half-Japanese friend of mine living in Kichijoji, who taught me the basics of Islam, as the sound of his art book, which was just before its release, was the sound of his Turkish friends.
He also gave me the opportunity to hold a solo exhibition of SYUNOVEN, the artist of the paintings in the book, at his mosque, and later provided me with financial support for the Japan tour of the Turkish band YAKAZA ENSEMBLE.

その流れでよくそのジャーミー（大きなモスクという意味）に居た時に彼にここら辺で何かオススメのレストランはあるか？と聞くとその店を教えてくれた。

When I was in that jamie (meaning “big mosque”) often, I asked him if he had any restaurant recommendations around here. And he told me about that restaurant.

ココはとても興味深い場所で、ご主人はエジプトのアスワン出身、奥さんは代々木が地元の日本人。
彼女の亡くなったお父さんは先代から代々木で営む肉屋さんで、
1943年に建設された！そのジャーミーの何代目かのイマーム（イスラムにおける牧師的な存在）から、
『うちの職員たちのためにハラール肉を作ってくれないか』と相談を受け、了承し、70年代から独自にハラール肉を製造するようになったという。

This is a very interesting place, the husband is from Aswan, Egypt and his wife is Japanese with Yoyogi being her hometown.
Her father who is already passed away was a butcher who had been running a butcher shop in Yoyogi since the previous generation, built in 1943!
The Imam (a pastor-like figure in Islam) of several generations of that Jami asked them if they could produce Halal meat for their staff, and they agreed, and began producing Halal meat on their own in the 1970s.

それとは全く関係なく？その娘であるうちむらの奥さんは自分とほぼ同世代なこともあり？２０代前半は世界各地に旅をしていたらしい。
その流れで辿り着いたエジプト、アスワンで現在の旦那と出会い、結婚。
親父さんの営んでいた肉屋さんを現在のエジプト料理屋に改造して今に至る。
持ち家なのもあって家賃がかからず、このエリアの中では抜群に価格が安い。

Unrelated to this?, Uchimura’s daughter, Mrs. Uchimura, who is almost the same age as me(?), spent her early twenties traveling all over the world.
She met and married her current husband in Aswan, Egypt.
She converted her father’s butcher shop into her current Egyptian restaurant.
Since she owns her own house, she does not have to pay rent, and the prices are outstandingly low in this area.

家庭的で素朴な味わいが自分は大好きで、ジャーミーに用があったり、近くによるとそこで食べたり、テイクアウトをしたりと、いつの間にか常連になっていた。

For better or worse, I loved the homey, rustic flavor, and before I knew it, I was a regular at Jammy’s, eating there when I was in the neighborhood or getting takeout.

そんな流れで奥さんとご主人に、今度エジプトに行くのだが、ヌビアの人で知り合いはいるかと聞くと、ご主人がまさにヌビアの拠点的都市であるアスワン出身で、本人自体はヌビア系ではなく、いわゆるアラブ系の人だが、地元なので何人か知ってますよ、と
まさにインシャッラー/マーシャッラーなことに。

In this vein, I asked the wife and her husband if they knew anyone from Nubia on my upcoming trip to Egypt. They replied that the husband was from Aswan, the very hub city of Nubia, and although he himself was not of Nubian descent but of so-called Arab descent, he knew some people there as he was a local.
It was truly inshallah/marshallah.

そこで紹介されたムハンマドさんにカイロから電話をし、アスワンに行ってレコーディングをしたいのでミュージシャンを紹介してほしい、と連絡を取っていた。

I called Muhammad from Cairo, who was introduced to me at the time, and asked him to introduce me to a musician because I wanted to go to Aswan to record.

そして先日の砂漠ツアーにも同行したヨウスケが今回も一緒に行くことに。
彼は自分が以前定期的に開催していたONENESSでも『ひかりあそび』という照明クルーで参加してくれていたりする、いわゆる照明屋さんを生業とするのだが、生来の遊び人気質でノリがよく、フットワークが軽いのがまさに長所。

And Yosuke, who accompanied me on my recent desert tour, is going with me again this time.
He is a lighting engineer by profession, and has been a member of the “Hikari Asobi” lighting crew at ONENESS, which I used to hold regularly.
And he is naturally playful and fun-loving, and his light footwork is his very strong point.

まさに旅にはうってつけの存在笑
He is just the perfect person for the trip lol

ということでカイロからアスワンまで長い時間をかけ、バスで移動。
So we took a long bus ride from Cairo to Aswan.

アスワンに入るとカイロとは違う南国感が。
Entering Aswan, the atmosphere is tropical, different from that of Cairo.

砂感は変わらないが、空気が明らかに綺麗なのもあり、空が青い！
それだけで気分はまさに晴れやかだ。

The sandy feeling is the same, but the air is obviously cleaner and the sky is blue!
That alone makes the mood truly radiant.

改めてナイル川を感じる。
Once again, I feel the Nile.

かつてはカイロにもこのような素朴な光景があったのだろう。
日本の神田川もそうか。。
There must have once been such a simple scene in Cairo.
The same would be true of the Kanda River in Japan…

市街地には恒例のエジプト感もある。
適当というかおおらかというか、雑というか、、
There is also the regular Egyptian feeling in the city center.
It is appropriate, or generous, or messy…

そしてココでも御多分に洩れず、『アラブの春』の匂いが。
And here, as in most places, there is a whiff of the “Arab Spring”.

そして宿を見つけ、小休止。
Then we found an inn and paused.

といってもただ旅をしに来たわけではないので、
すぐにPCを開き、先日録音した音の編集や、構成を進め、臨戦態勢を整える。
横のヨウスケは構わずリラックス笑。

I am not here just to travel, though, so I immediately open my PC and proceed to edit and compose the sounds I recorded the other day, and get ready for action.
Yosuke, beside me, is relaxed lol

今回も先日のセネガル編でも登場した故千代丸健二氏の遺品のカメラ。
Again, the camera belonging to the late Kenji Chiyomaru, which appeared in the recent Senegal edition.

氏とは2010年頃に仲間からの紹介で出会い、2011年２月のセネガル/トルコの旅の時にこのカメラを借りた。
I met him around 2010 through a fellow photographer and borrowed this camera during my trip to Senegal/Turkey in February 2011.

2011年３月12日、地震と原発爆発のニュースで混乱中の東京で、すでに癌末期で病床に臥せっていた千代丸さんの部屋の片付け部隊にリアルテロリスト？ネガミさんという人と参加したりと最期まで少し交流があった。

On March 12, 2011, in the chaos of Tokyo amidst the news of the earthquake and nuclear power plant explosion, I participated in the cleanup of Chiyomaru’s room with a real terrorist? named Negami, who was already in the final stages of cancer and lying in bed, and we had some interaction until his last days.

自分には音楽があったので、その方向には行かなかったが、どこかで彼らのような活動家というジャンルの？生き方もあったのかもしれない。
I had my own music, so I didn’t go in that direction, but maybe somewhere along the line there was a way of life in the activist genre? like theirs.

世は常に不条理だ。
The world is always absurd.

ネガティブな側面ばかり見ていては生きていてツライ。
It is hard to live if you only look at the negative aspects.

もし経済的なものだけに支配されてしまったら生きる意味さえ見つからない。
If we were ruled only by economic things, we would not even find the meaning of life.

そんな思考も瞬間よぎるが…、
Such a thought crossed my mind for a moment…,

この宿の屋上はいい感じで、滞在中はここでヨガをやっていた。
The rooftop of this inn is a nice place, and I practiced yoga there during my stay.

ヨガもまた自分が出会った、このクソな世の中で生きる上での数少ない光だ。
Yoga is also one of the few lights I have found in this shitty world.

とにかく重い荷物から解放され、２人で飯を食いに徘徊。
Anyway, freed from our heavy luggage, the two of us wandered around for a meal.

歩く、働く人たちの肌は、カイロより明らかに黒い。
The skin of the walking and working people is clearly darker than in Cairo.

ヌビア、つまり東アフリカの原住民の街に来たんだなーと改めて感慨深い。
I was deeply moved once again that we had come to Nubia, that is, a city of the natives of East Africa.

先述したように田舎の人だからか原住民だからかみんな穏やかというかユックリしてるというか、とにかく気持ちがいい街だ。
Maybe it is because the people are from the countryside as mentioned above, or maybe it is because they are natives, but everyone is calm or relaxed, or whatever, it is a pleasant town.

そして待ち合わせしたムハンマドさんと合流。
Then we met up with Muhammad who met up with us.

齢は少し上くらいでそんなに変わらない。
自分の見かけがおかしくなっているらしい…。
He is about a little older than me and not that much different.
I hear that my appearance is getting strange….

ともかく強力な助っ人の登場でアスワンでの濃度の高いドラマがいよいよ始まった！
Anyway, with the arrival of powerful helpers, the high-density drama at Aswan has finally begun!

次回へ続く
To be continued

画像に alt 属性が指定されていません。ファイル名: JUZU-アー写0708.jpg

J.A.K.A.M. (JUZU a.k.a. MOOCHY / NXS /CROSSPOINT)
http://www.nxs.jp/
https://linktr.ee/JAKAM

東京出身。15歳からバンドとＤＪの活動を並行して始め、スケートボードを通して知り合ったメンバーで結成されたバンドEvilPowersMeの音源は、結成後すぐにアメリカのイラストレイターPusheadのレーベル等からリリースされる。DJとしてもその革新的でオリジナルなスタイルが一世を風靡し、瞬く間に国内外の巨大なフェスからアンダーグランドなパーティまで活動が展開される。ソロの楽曲制作としても米Grand RoyalからのBuffalo Daughterのリミックスを皮切りに、Boredoms等のリミックス等メジャー、インディー問わず様々なレーベルからリリースされる。2003年にキューバで現地ミュージシャンとレコーディングツアーを敢行したのを皮切りに、その後世界各地で録音を重ね、新たなWorld Musicの指針として、立ち上げたレーベルCROSSPOINTを始動。
2015年から始まった怒濤の９ヶ月連続ヴァイナルリリースは大きな話題になり、その影響でベルリン／イスラエルのレーベルMalka Tutiなどからワールドワイドにリリースされ、DJ TASAKAとのHIGHTIME Inc.、Nitro Microphone UndergroundのMACKA-CHINとPART2STYLEのMaLとのユニットZEN RYDAZ、Minilogue/Son KiteのMarcus HenrikssonとKuniyukiとのユニットMYSTICSなど、そのオリジナルなヴィジョンは、あらゆるジャンルをまたぎ、拡散し続けている。また音楽制作のみならず、映像作品、絵本や画集のプロデュース、野外フェスOoneness Camp”縄文と再生”を企画するなど活動は多岐に渡る。

Born in Tokyo, he started playing in bands and DJing at the same time when he was 15. As a DJ, his innovative and original style and his activities have quickly expanded from huge festivals to underground parties both in Japan and abroad. In 2003, he went on a recording tour with local musicians in Cuba, and since then he has been recording all over the world, and started his own label, Crosspoint, as a new guideline for New World Music.
In music production, he has also produced video works, picture books and art books, and organized the outdoor festival “Jomon and Rebirth” in 2012.
9 consecutive months of vinyl releases in 2015 became a big topic, and his fourth album was released at the end of that year, which led to the worldwide release of his new album on the Berlin/Israeli label Malka Tuti.
HIGHTIME Inc. with DJ TASAKA in 2017, and ZEN RYDAZ, a unit with MACKA-CHIN of Nitro Microphone Underground and MaL of PART2STYLE, in 2018.
In the same year, his music under the name of J.A.K.A.M. was released in analog form on the French label HardFist, which led to a live performance at the huge 30,000-person Nuits Sonores Festival in Lyon, followed by a DJ tour of Europe and Israel.
In 2019, the production of MYSTICS, a unit with Marcus Henriksson and Kuniyuki of Minilogue/Son Kite, which has a worldwide following, will begin, and the long-awaited album will be released in 2021.
His original vision is spreading across all genres and around the world.

校正・英訳：編集部　中村、池上
Proofreading and English translation: Editorial department Nakamura, Ikegami