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和食器・調理器具から見る和食

Japanese food from the perspective of Japanese tableware and cooking tools

#Food #Hocho #Japanesecuisine #Kitchen #Knife #キッチン #日本食 #包丁 #和食 2021.04.23

こんにちは。THAT IS GOOD編集部池上です。
和食器や日本食を作るときに使う調理器具を、歴史や実際のお店と一緒にご紹介します。

Hello. I’m Ikegami, a member of THAT IS GOOD editorial department.
I would like to introduce Japanese cooking utensils and cookware used to make Japanese food, along with their history and actual restaurants.

第一回　和包丁

Vol.1 Japanese kitchen knife

包丁と言えばどこの国の何の料理でも使われる、一般的な調理器具です。
今回は、包丁の由来と日本料理の歴史を一緒にご紹介します。

A kitchen knife is a common cooking tool that is used for cooking anything in any country.
This time, the origin of Hocho (knife) with a history of Japanese cuisine.

名前の由来

Origin of the name

「包丁」という名称の由来については諸説ありますが、加賀藩御料理頭をつとめた舟木安信の著した「式正膳部集解（しきしようぜんぶしゅうげ）」によると、この時代に厨房で働く人を「庖」(ほう)と呼んでいました。そして、そこで働いていた中国人の「丁」（ちょう）さんが、牛を切るのに使用した刀が、とても便利でした。そこで、それにならって作った魚用の包丁を「庖丁刀」と呼び、省略されて「庖丁」というようになりました。当時日本では四つ足の動物の肉をあまり食べず、魚をよく食べたので、魚用の刀を作ったそうです。
(参考文献に合わせて、包丁の表記を「庖丁」にします。)

There are many theories about the origin of the name “Hocho(kitchen knife in English)”, but according to “Shiki Shiyo Zembu Shuge” written by Funaki Yasunobu, who was the head chef of the Kaga domain, people who worked in the kitchen during this period were called “hou” (庖). And the knife that Mr. Cho(丁), a Chinese man who worked there, used to cut cows was very useful. So the kitchen knife for fish, which was made after that, was called “Hocho-katana”, and it was shortened to “Hocho”. In those days, people in Japan did not eat much meat from four-legged animals, but ate a lot of fish, so they made swords for fish.
(In accordance with the reference, the kitchen knife is written “庖丁”.)

庖丁と日本食の歴史

The history of kitchen knives and Japanese cuisine

和庖丁の起源は、石器時代の黒曜石や石英などでできた打製石器や磨製石器で、日本に製鉄技術が普及したことによって、石器から鉄器へ変わっていきました。それから和庖丁の歴史が本格的に始まったそうです。
日本に現存する最古の庖丁は、奈良時代（760年ごろ）に作られたと推測され、現在は正倉院に10本保管されています。この庖丁は、刃渡り22~25cm、刃幅1,4~1,7cmの細くてまっすぐした刀です。

The origin of Japanese kitchen knives is chipped stoneware and polished stoneware made from obsidian and quartz, which were used in the Stone Age. By the spread of iron making technology in Japan, iron tools changed to stone tools. Then, the history of Japanese kitchen knives started in earnest.
The oldest existing kitchen knife in Japan is presumed to have been made in the Nara period (around the year of 760), and now ten of them are kept in Shosoin. This knife is a thin and straight blade with a length of 22~25cm and a width of 1,4~1,7cm.

出典：【刀剣ワールド】包丁の歴史と変化｜現代に残る武士の風習 (touken-world.jp)

平安時代に伝わった「大饗料理（だいきょうりょうり）」によって、調味料の種類が増え、調理方法にも工夫が凝らされてきました。「大饗」とは大宴会を意味します。この形式は、それまでの日本の調理方法とは異なり、美しく切り、美しく盛り付けるように変化していました。このころの料理が上手な料理人のことを「庖丁上手」と言いました。また、庖丁の切り口によって、料理の出来栄えを決めていたそうです。

With the introduction of “Daikyo cuisine” in the Heian period (794-1185), the variety of seasonings available and cooking methods became more and more ingenious. The word “daikyo” means a large banquet. This form of cooking was different from previous Japanese cooking methods, which changed to cut beautifully and serve beautifully. The cooks at this time were called “Ho-cho Jouzu”. It is also said that the quality of the dish was decided by the cut of the cleaver.

鎌倉時代に伝わった精進料理は、仏教の戒律に基づいて、殺生や煩悩を避けるために考えられた料理です。当時日本では神道などの影響もあり、肉や魚を避けて、身を清らかにする「潔斎」という習慣が一部の階級では定着していて、受け入れやすかったようです。その習慣が全国に広まり、野菜や豆、穀物でつくられた精進料理は、煮る・あくを抜くなど、時間をかけて作られている特徴があります。また、大豆を加工した味噌・豆腐・湯葉・油揚げなどで、肉がなくても物足りなくないようにしているとも言われています。また、仁治2年（1241年）には石臼と一緒に、製粉・製麺技術が宋の国から伝わり、大豆料理や麺料理は大きく進化したそうです。精進料理を担当する僧侶は、魚や鶏を扱う料理人を「庖丁人」と呼んでいたのに対して、「調菜人」と呼ばれていました。
ちなみにこのころ、現在の日本の食事中のマナーとして残っている、「話をしない」、「食器の音を立てない」、「食べる音をたてない」、「食べ物を残してはいけない」などが書かれた書物が、残されています。

Buddhist vegetarian cuisine called “Shojin ryori”, introduced in the Kamakura period (1185-1333), is based on Buddhist precepts in order to avoid killing and vexation. At that time in Japan, due to the influence of Shintoism and other religions, the custom of “Kessai,” or purification of the body by avoiding meat and fish, was well-established among some classes and was easily accepted. This custom spread throughout the country, and shojin ryori made from vegetables, beans, and grains is characterized by its time-consuming preparation, including boiling and draining. It is said that they use miso, tofu, yuba, fried tofu, etc., processed from soybeans, to satisfy their hunger even without meat. It is also said that in the second year of Ninji (1241), the technology of milling and noodle making, along with stone mortar, was introduced from the country of Song, and soybean and noodle dishes evolved greatly. The monks who were in charge of vegetarian cooking were called “Chosai-nin” , in contrast to the fish and chicken cooks who were called “Hocho-nin” .
By the way, at that time, there were books written about the manners that remain in Japan today, such as “no talking,” “no noise of dishes,” “no noise of eating,” and “don’t leave food behind.

室町時代以降になると、鎖国文化の間に「本膳料理」として、食事をとる行動自体に儀礼的な意味合いを持たせました。この本膳料理から、現在のような、飯・汁物・野菜・香の物という日本料理の基本形が確立されたと言われています。そして、食べきれなかった料理を折に詰めてもらって持ち帰るという習慣も、このころから始まりました。

After the Muromachi period (1336-1573), during the period of seclusion from the rest of the world, the act of eating was given a ritualistic meaning in itself as “honzen ryori”.
It is said that from this honzen ryori, the basic form of Japanese cuisine as we know it today was established, consisting of rice, soup, vegetables, and pickles. The custom of having leftover food packed in folds to take home also started around this time.

それから、よりおいしい食事を形式にとらわれず自由に楽しむことに重点を置いた料理が「懐石料理」です。懐石料理には、味覚だけではなく、その場、その場の出会いを大切にするという意図が込められており、季節を感じる趣向やもてなす心に赴きが置かれ、温かい料理を温かいうちに食べられるよう、配膳のタイミングにも気を配られるようになりました。料理技術も大きく進化し、肉や魚を切る「庖丁師」と、野菜を切る「割肴師（きざみざかなし）」という専門の料理人も登場しました。合わせて、庖丁も効率の良いものが求められ、出刃・薄刃・刺身など、用途別に種類が増えました。このころになると、一般人に料理を教える料理本が登場し、庶民が料理を作って楽しむ文化が始まっていたそうです。

Kaiseki ryori is a type of cuisine that focuses on the free enjoyment of a delicious meal without formalities. Kaiseki ryori is a type of cuisine that focuses on the free enjoyment of a delicious meal without formalities. Kaiseki ryori is not only about taste, but also about cherishing the encounter of the moment. Kaiseki ryori also emphasizes the taste of the seasons and the spirit of hospitality, and the timing of serving food has been carefully considered so that hot dishes can be eaten while still warm. Cooking techniques also evolved greatly, and specialized chefs called “Hocho-shi” to cut meat and fish and “kizamizakanashi” to cut vegetables appeared. At the same time, efficient kitchen knives were required, and the types of knives increased according to the purpose, such as de-ba, thin-blade, and sashimi. Around this time, cookbooks appeared to teach people how to cook, and a culture in which common people enjoyed cooking had started.

長い鎖国時代が終わると、外国の文化が急速に入ってきて、日本人の肉食習慣は急速に庶民に広がり、西洋料理店も街に見られるようになりました。それとともに、西洋庖丁も伝わり、主に肉を切ることから、「牛刀」と呼ばれました。ちなみにこれは、欧米ではシェフナイフ、フレンチナイフと呼び、肉専用ではなく、何にでも使える万能庖丁とされています。
高度成長期以降では、錆びないという利点を持つステンレス庖丁が、主婦の間で人気になりました。

When the long period of national isolation ended, foreign cultures rapidly came into Japan, and the meat-eating habits of the Japanese rapidly spread to the common people, and Western restaurants could be seen in the towns. At the same time, Western kitchen knives were also introduced, and they were called “Gyuto” because they mainly cut beef. (Beef called Gyu in Japanese.) By the way, this is called a chef’s knife or a French knife in Europe and America, and it is regarded as a versatile knife that can be used for anything, not only for meat.
After the high growth period, stainless steel knives became popular among housewives because they have the advantage of not rusting.

参考文献：信田圭造「シリーズ・ニッポン再発見⑦ 庖丁―和食文化をささえる伝統の技と心―」(株式会社ミネルヴァ書房、2017年)
References : Keizo SHINODA “Series NIPPON Re-discovery Kitchen Knife”(Minerva shobo, 2017)

和食レストランの包丁

Knives at Japanese Restaurant

現在和食レストランで使われている包丁を見せていただきました。
ご協力いただいたのは、恵比寿と代官山の間にある「猫も杓子も」のオーナー、後藤さんです。

We were shown the knives that are currently being used in Japanese restaurants.
We were asked to cooperate by Mr. Goto, the owner of “Neko mo Shakushi mo”, located between Ebisu and Daikanyama, Tokyo.

左から(包丁名は後藤さんによる)
ペティナイフ
切りつけ包丁（オールマイティ）
出刃包丁（魚）
柳刃包丁（お刺身用）
薄刃包丁（野菜、桂剥き）
骨切り包丁（ハモ）
柳刃包丁（刺し身、白身魚用、身が硬い、薄く切りたい時用）
小出刃包丁（魚）

From left. Names are according to Mr.Goto.
Petit knife
Kiritsuke Hocho(Cutlery knife : all-purpose)
Deba Bocho(De-ba knife : for fish)
Yanagiba Bocho (Yanagiba knife : for sashimi)
Usuba Bocho (Thin-bladed knife : for vegetables, peeling)
Honekiri Bocho (Bone-cutting knife : for hamo/ sea eel)
Yanagiba Bocho (Yanagiba knife : for sashimi, white fish, hard meat, thin slicing)
Kodeba Bocho (Small de-bade knife : for fish)

Q. この包丁の中でも、思い出深いものはありますか？
A. 薄刃ですね〜。淡々とカツラ剥きの練習した思い出があります！

Q. What is the most memorable thing about these knives?
A. It’s a thin blade! I have fond memories of practicing my wig-peeling without a care for it!

猫も杓子も

Neko mo Shakushi mo

恵比寿駅と代官山駅の間くらいにある、猫も杓子も。創作和食のお店で、単品とコースがあり、お腹の具合によって決められます。また、お酒も揃っていて、おススメをその場で相談して出してもらうことも可能です。
オーナーの後藤さんは気さくで初対面でも話しやすく、常連さんからも愛されるキャラクターです。

This restaurant is located between Ebisu Station and Daikanyama Station. It is a creative Japanese cuisine restaurant that offers both single dishes and courses, which you can decide according to your stomach. They also have a good selection of alcoholic beverages, and you can ask the owner for recommendations on the day.
The owner, Mr. Goto, is friendly and easy to talk to, even when you meet him for the first time, and he is loved by the regulars.

住所：東京都渋谷区恵比寿西2-14-10 トゥワォン代官山B-02
電話番号：03-6427-8308
Address : B-02, 2-14-10 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, JAPAN
TEL : 03-6427-8308

Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/nekomo_syakushimo/?hl=ja

著：THAT IS GOOD編集部　池上
Written by THAT IS GOOD editorial department, Ikegami

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